The Home Efficiency Group (HEG) prides itself on superior products and services. The HEG Air Transfer Kits consists of:

• R1 Insulated Flexible Ducting (insulated with polyester insulation, not glass fibres)
• Inline Air Pump (either an axial or centrifugal positive-pressure fan)
• Variable Speed Controller/Switch
• Circular Inlet and outlet diffusers
• Ducting Branches
• Hanging Strap (can be tied or stapled to ceiling trusses)
• Duct Tape

Home Efficiency Group does not take any responsibility for the installation of these kits, or damage caused arising from its use or installation, or warrant its suitability for any purpose whatsoever. We recommend using a licensed tradesperson to install, as well as turning off the mains power to the house during the installation process. Please take a common-sense approach to installation, and do not rely on this approximate guide for installation.

To be suitable for a ducted air transfer system, your house needs to:

• have access to the ceiling cavity via a manhole;
• have a ceiling cavity  tall enough to allow a grown man to be able to move & manoeuvre. For instance, a skillion or 100% coverage cathedral ceiling is not suitable.
• have adequate ceiling insulation to retain the heat in the "destination" rooms
• Have a strong enough heater, such as a wood heater, 8+ KW Heat Pump or good electric heater

These tips are provided warranty-free, and are meant as a general guide only. They cannot be relied upon as every domestic dwelling is different.

1. As you will be dealing with plaster, drop-sheets are strongly recommended. Also, organise the electrician in advance of the install. They will be needed to wire in the inline air pump as well as to install the variable speed switch.
2. Find suitable places on the ceiling for the ducting inlets and outlets to go.
   1. Typically, place inlet on ceiling at warmest part of room.
   2. Try to place outlets in the corner of a room diagonally opposite the door.
   3. Do not duct directly into hallways as the air will typically not go into the rooms either side of it.
   4. Use the cardboard templates on the top of the diffusers to cut holes into your ceiling.
   5. Do not put inlet too close to flues or other heat sources. Seek professional advice if unsure.
   6. Before cutting the ceiling, ensure you have first checked in the ceiling for obstructions, ceiling joists, wiring or other obstacles.
3. If you are ducting to multiple rooms, ensure that the lengths of ducting coming out of the branches (e.g. Y branches) are of equal length. This allows the flow of air to be balanced between the outlets, otherwise one outlet may have a strong flow and the other a weak flow.
4. Do a drill guide from the top of the ceiling cavity “down” first. Using the drill hole in the ceiling as a guide, trace around the template onto the ceiling. Usually the larger diffuser (200mm as opposed to 150mm) is the inlet. Cut out around the inlet using a jig saw or plasterers hand saw.
5. Connect the inline air pump to the supplied spigots using self-tapping screws and ducting tape.
6. Use duct tape to bind the internal ducting to the ceiling diffuser neck, holding back the insulation whilst you do this, then duct tape the external layer to the diffuser neck
7. Allow up to 3 metres of ducting from the inlet to the inline air pump.
8. Duct tape the flexible ducting to the branches, diffusers and inline air pump. Ensure you keep the ducting reasonably tight to avoid air drag & increase efficiency.
9. Organise an electrician to wire in the pump and install the variable speed switch.

E&OE.